Two entirely different three-inch cables can be marked with the cable templates in this package. Using the traditional method of marking between two parallel lines, you get a traditional cable as in Figure 1. Using our notches, and marking along a single line, you get a sinuous cable in which the eye changes slant with every other twist of the strand, as in Figure 2.

Figure 1

To mark the traditional cable:

1. Mark parallel lines 3 inches apart if you are using the large template, 2 inches apart if you are using the small one.
2. Place the template so that the outside edges of the curves barely touch the parallel lines, as in the cross-hatched cable in Figure 1.
3. Move the template up, still keeping the outside edges of the curves along the parallel lines, until the eye formed between the template and the "s" you have already drawn is the size you want it to be. You will note that the template overlaps the "s" you have already drawn, so when you trace around the template this time, don't trace along quite the entire length of the template. Trace only from the point where the template intersects the "s" you have already drawn. When you get to the top of the template, stop short by the same amount you left unmarked at the bottom. A glance at the dotted template in Figure 1 will help straighten out this problem in your mind. A little experimentation on paper in advance of marking a quilt top will prevent a lot of smudging on the quilt.
4. When you place the template for segment C, you want to be sure that it continues on the lines established by segment A as it comes out from behind segment B. A and C are intended to look like a continuous strand which is being twisted around strand B-D. You will lose your illusion if strand A-C doesn't come out from behind strand B-D exactly opposite the place it went under.
5. There is no need to mark the interior quilting lines. Quilt them by eye, one "s" at a time, as in segments D and E.

Figure 2

The cable in figure 2 is easier to mark.

1. Draw a line exactly down the center of the space you have left for your border. You will need a 3 inch space if you are using the large template, a 2 inch if you are using the small one.
2. Place the template along the line you have drawn so that notches 1 and 2 lie along the line, as in the cross-hatched template in Figure 2. Trace around both sides of the template.
3. Move the template up, still keeping notches 1 and 2 along the vertical line, until notch 2 intersects the line of segment A, as in the dotted segment in Figure 2.
4. Trace around both sides of the template.
5. From now on, keep moving the template up, notches 1 and 2 on the line, until the bottom of the template exactly matches up with the spot where you left off with the segment before the one you have just drawn. The strand formed by segments A-C-E is intended to look continuous as it twists over and under the strand formed by segments B-D-F. Don't destroy your illusion by carelessly allowing one of these segments to go under at one point and back up at another.

   You will note in your marking that every other time (i.e. in segments B and D) you don't need the entire length of the template to fill the space required by the strand segment you are drawing. So, as you draw every other "s" - i.e., B, D, F, etc., trace only as far as necessary.

6. There is no need to mark the interior quilting lines. Quilt them by eye as in segments D and E.

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